The winery is perched improbably between hairpin bends on the side of a mountain, with four hectares of vineyards around it, and not much else except rock and sky. Reinhold Messner’s tenants, who grow the vines and make the wine, are Gisela and Martin Aurich. Their Müller-Thurgau grows at between 750 and 850m altitude and has a nicely restrained tightness to it, allied to pear and spice. The Blauburgunder is planted a fraction lower down, at 630 to 700m and gets some ageing in acacia wood and oak barrels: it’s juicy and black-fruited. Wines of rock and sky.