The best way to make a small fortune in the wine trade is to start with a large one.  I don’t know who said this but they may well have been speaking about either of our Tuscan Marcos, Bacci or Nicolini.  The latter farms more than 20 ha of basil which helps fuel the world’s insatiable demand for pesto and also allows Marco II to indulge his passion for sports cars and for fine wine.  Having established that we had something in common I still remember my first journey (in the 911, of course) up the switchbacks to arrive at the plot of gnarled Vermentino that marks the entrance to the winery.  At the moment it’s more building site than country home but Marco’s roots are here in the hills above La Spezia and he’s a determined supporter of its potential.  It’s not a million miles up the coast from Carrara and the soil here is particularly stony, unrewarding, and calcareous.  The 2009 Colli di Luni is new for this year and is delicious accompanying almost anything with fins.  Don’t let the modest price fool you, this is a thrilling wine with high alcohol and a striking minerality.

Terenzuola Italian wine

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