Daniel Wagner, the ninth generation of the family and a member of the VDP, is in charge here, on the volcanic hills of the village of Siefersheim, in the far west of the Rheinhessen (spiritually in the Nahe). He grows Silvaner and Pinot Blanc as well as Riesling, but we’ve settled for his Rieslings, all organically grown. Riesling Gütswein Qualitätswein Trocken is a deliberate declassification from Grosses Gewächs and a wine of good texture and weight, great concentration and brisk raciness; Riesling Siefersheim Porphyr Trocken is from (as you might guess) the typical porphyry soils of Siefersheim: very savoury, precise and powerful. The Riesling Heerkretz Grosses Gewächs is a revelation: sleek and weighty but with superb mineral purity. We also have his Heerkretz Spätlese, where a touch of honey creeps up on vivid flavours of orange peel and verbena.